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Basic knowledge about clothing fabrics (basic knowledge of clothing fabrics)



▌Fabric material classification Fabric actually has multiple meanings. According to the material of the cloth, it is called textile fiber. Although there are many varieties of text…

▌Fabric material classification

Fabric actually has multiple meanings. According to the material of the cloth, it is called textile fiber.

Although there are many varieties of textile fibers, they can be basically divided into two categories: natural fibers and chemical fibers:

▍Natural fibers refer to those found in nature or from artificially cultivated animals. Textile fibers obtained directly from

▍Chemical fiber is a textile fiber made from natural or synthetic polymers through a certain method.

▍Man-made fibers refer to fibers made from natural polymers (such as wood, sugarcane bagasse or animal fibers) as raw materials and spun into certain processes.

▍Synthetic fiber is a fiber made from synthetic polymer giant spinning using petroleum, coal, natural gas and some agricultural and sideline products as raw materials.

▌Natural fiber properties

▍Cotton

░ It is highly hygroscopic, comfortable to wear, easy to dye, and easier to shrink.

░ Resistant to alkali and acid, mercerized cotton is cotton fabric treated with caustic soda.

░ Cotton fiber is relatively heat-resistant, but it is not suitable for long-term processing above 100 degrees. If the ironing temperature is around 190 degrees, it is best to spray moisture on the cotton fabric when ironing to facilitate ironing.

░ Cotton fiber is soft and weak. Cotton fabric has good hand feel, comfortable to wear and washable, but easy to wrinkle. It is suitable for all kinds of clothing and bedding in all seasons.

▍Hemp

There are many varieties of hemp, including ramie, flax, jute, hemp, etc. At present, the first two are the most commonly used in fabrics. Linen and cotton have some similar properties.

░ It has strong hygroscopicity and is resistant to alkali and acid.

░ The heat resistance is also good, the ironing temperature can reach 190 degrees – 210 degrees, and it is easy to burn.

░ The strength is higher than cotton. Hemp fiber is harder, less weak, and the fabric wrinkles easily. It is harder, stiffer, and refreshing than cotton fabric. The so-called linen fabric is the ramie fabric that southerners love to wear. It does not fit tightly against the body after sweating.

Ramie is the best quality fiber among hemp fibers. It has the characteristics of coolness, moisture absorption, breathability, etc. It is also high in stiffness, hard, stiff, and not close-fitting, making it suitable for making summer clothing. Ramie and polyester are blended to make “hemp really good”, which has a refreshing style.

▍Silk

Natural silk is divided into domestic silk and wild silk, domestic silk is mulberry silk; the main variety of wild silk is tussah silk. Silk has high strength, slender fibers, soft and smooth, is weaker than cellulose fibers, and has a unique luster. Silk fabric can be thin and gauze-like, but can also be plump and firm as silk. It is a highly durable clothing material and is a protein fiber like wool.

▍Wool

Wool is the largest fiber used in textiles and is usually called wool.

Wool fiber is thicker and longer than cotton fiber, has a certain curl, and its surface is covered with a layer of scales. Due to the existence of scales, wool has a special property, namely shrinkage. Fulling property refers to the property of wool that is rubbed together in warm water and washing liquid, and then bites and shrinks with each other. Causes wool products to be washed in daily life
After shrinkage, the density becomes larger, and milling is one of the reasons. If the scales are destroyed to make them smooth and flat, wool products will not mill. Therefore, machine washable woolen sweaters sold on the market undergo this surface treatment.

▍Leather

Leather is a denatured and non-perishable animal skin obtained through physical and chemical processing such as hair removal and tanning. Leather is made of natural protein fibers tightly woven in three-dimensional space. Its surface has a special grain layer, which has natural grain and luster and feels comfortable.

The natural leather surface has its own special natural pattern, and the leather surface has a natural luster. When you press or pinch the leather surface with your hands, the leather surface has no dead wrinkles or folds, and no cracks; while the leather surface of artificial leather has It is very similar to natural leather, but if you look closely, the pattern is unnatural, the luster is brighter than natural leather, and the colors are mostly bright.

▌Properties of chemical fibers

As clothing materials, seven major fibers are mainly used. Their common characteristics are as follows:

░ The hygroscopicity is generally lower than that of natural fibers. It is easy to become static electricity after friction, and it is easy to attract dust.

░ Most of them have high strength and good elasticity, and are prone to pilling after being worn for a long time.

░ When burning, they generally soften and shrink first. Some can melt, produce dripping and drawing, and emit odor. The ironing temperature is lower than that of natural fibers.

░ Thermal setting properties are better, and because they have low hygroscopicity, they can still maintain their original shape after washing.

▍Polyester (Qianliang)

It is currently the fastest growing fiber among chemical fibers. Commonly known as true good. The silk fabrics made from it include soft yarn, Juliet yarn, Jiali silk, and the so-called “linen yarn material” that is popular with women in the recent summer market, etc. Polyester blended with cotton is called cotton-polyester (cotton-polyester), blended with wool is called wool-polyester, and blended with linen is called linen-polyester, etc. Its characteristics:
It feels stuffy and airtight, is not easy to dye, and becomes static after friction. It is easy to absorb dust, but it is not easy to shrink, easy to wash, and quick to dry.

▍Nylon (nylon, nylon, Capron)

Commonly known as nylon, nylon, Capron, etc., its characteristics: good elasticity, high strength, high wear resistance , poor light resistance, easy to yellow when exposed to sunlight, often used in socks, gloves and knitted sportswear, etc.

▍Acrylic (Orlon, Cashmere, Axlon)

It has the characteristics of fluffy, soft and warm, such as light weight, low price, bright color, high degree of stability, and It is mold-free and does not need to be ironed after washing. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing fabrics, such as acrylic sweaters, spun fur coats, blankets, etc.

▍Vinylon (vinylon, yarnon, colalon)

After blending vinylon with cotton, it became a popular vinylon fabric in the domestic market. Vinylon fabric is very similar to cotton, and its properties are closest to cotton fiber among synthetic fibers. Since vinylon is rarely used in clothing in my country and is mostly used in bedding, it will not be introduced in detail.

▍Viscose

The raw materials of viscose are natural substances, such as wood, bamboo, cotton linters, sugarcane bagasse, etc. The fiber spun out is also called rayon. Its fabrics include: Beautiful silk, Fuchunfang, artificial satin, artificial cotton, artificial wool, etc. Its characteristics are as follows:

░ Highly hygroscopic and flammable.

░Smooth surface and soft hand feel. Viscose fabric has greater drape than cotton and linen, and is suitable for skirts and various clothing fabrics and linings.

▍Vinegar (ester, acid) fiber (fiber)

Most of them appear in silk style. In addition to being used as clothing fabrics, they are also commonly used as linings.

▍Spandex (Malidan, Lycra)

It has high elasticity like glue, so it is also called elastic fiber. It can be used in place of elastic bands, but is currently more expensive.

░ High elasticity, high elasticity that other fibers cannot match, and good wear resistance.

░ The face does not lose its elasticity in cold, wind, snow or sun exposure.

▌ Fabric Advantages and Disadvantages

Cotton

Advantages: sweat-absorbent, breathable, soft, anti-allergic , easy to clean, not easy to pill.

Disadvantages: Easy to wrinkle, shrink, and deform.

Line

Advantages: natural fabric, comfortable, light and breathable.

Disadvantages: Easy to wrinkle, not stiff, poor elasticity, skin feels itchy when worn.

Wool

Advantages: warmth, soft wool, good elasticity, and strong thermal insulation.

Disadvantages: prone to pilling, shrinkage, and felting reactions.

Cashmere

Advantages: warm, soft texture, soft and delicate luster, good hygroscopicity and breathability, close-fitting, comfortable, and Unique feel.

Disadvantages: easy to break, not wear-resistant, easy to pill, delicate.

Leather

Advantages: It has certain breathing performance, high durability and high temperature resistance.

Disadvantages: Genuine leather is dark, bright and soft in color, while imitation leather is bright.

Nylon

Advantages: smooth surface, lighter, durable, easy to wash and dry, constant elasticity and stretchability.

Disadvantages: Easily generate static electricity.

Polyester fiber

Advantages: good elasticity, silky soft, not easy to soften, soft wool.

Disadvantages: poor air permeability, prone to static electricity and hair balls.

▍Polyester

Advantages: chemical fiber fabric, easy to care for, crisp, no need to iron.

Disadvantages: poor air permeability, easy to generate static electricity, and difficult to dye.

▍Silk

Advantages: soft luster, soft and delicate feel.

Disadvantages: poor wear resistance, easy to snag, fade, yellow, become brittle, and difficult to store.

▍Rayon

Advantages: bright and soft, good water absorption, easy to dye, no pilling, good suspension.

Disadvantages: poor resilience, shrinkage significantly after washing, and prone to mildew.

▍Viscose (artificial cotton)

Advantages: The luster is brighter than cotton, the appearance is finer and quieter than cotton, and the hand feels soft and smooth

Disadvantages: The body is soft and heavy, lacks elasticity, wrinkles easily when kneaded, and wrinkles are easy to recover.

▌Blending process

Blended chemical fiber fabric is a textile product made of chemical fiber mixed with other natural fibers such as cotton wool, silk, linen and other natural fibers. For example: polyester cotton cloth, polyester wool gabardine, etc. For example, polyester-cotton blended fabrics are made of polyester as the main component, and are woven from 65%-67% polyester and 33%-35% cotton blended yarns. Polyester-cotton fabrics are commonly known as cotton. Features: It not only highlights the style of polyester but also has the advantages of cotton fabric. It has good elasticity and wear resistance in dry and wet conditions, stable size, small shrinkage, tall and straight, not easy to wrinkle, easy to wash, and quick to dry. Features: Do not use high temperature ironing or soaking in boiling water.


▌Fabric standards

Regular brands will inspect each batch Products are randomly inspected in China according to Chinese standards.

Raw materials must meet this requirement and be higher than this requirement

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Quality inspection: appearance quality inspection of yarn (silk) thickness, evenness, defects, gloss, and feel, mainly using sensory inspection; internal quality inspection , color fastness, comfort, safety, also known as physical and chemical testing. The most important things are formaldehyde and color fastness (color fading)

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Author: clsrich

 
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