Based on the current development dynamics and trends of silk printing and dyeing technology at home and abroad, relevant experts believe that silk printing and dyeing technology must be developed around the four development themes of silk products: “high quality, high efficiency, energy saving, and environmental protection”. It is not easy to overcome the three major defects of “wrinkling, easy fading, and easy yellowing”. The improvement of silk production technology is attributed to four goals: “good, fast, economical, and environmentally friendly”. Efforts should be made to develop the following technologies:
1. Cold rolling batch silk refining technology.
Cold pad batch technology has been successful in dyeing with reactive dyes and desizing cotton in cotton printing and dyeing. The advantages of cold pad batch in saving water and energy are very significant, and it is generally welcomed by printing and dyeing enterprises and is widely used. Some people in China are already studying the transplantation of this technical idea into the silk degumming and refining process. If this technology is applied to the silk production process, it will not only save a lot of water and steamed oxygen, but also greatly reduce the dust damage, hang marks, wrinkle marks and other defects caused by traditional refining equipment on silk, which will have great impact on energy saving, Environmental protection and improving product quality will be of great benefit. Tests have shown that at a temperature of 35°C, thin and low-weft-density satin can be degummed in 24 hours (traditional processes require repeated refining at a high temperature of 96-98°C under slightly boiling conditions, which takes more than 5-10 hours). It takes 96 hours to achieve a degumming rate of about 23% for medium-thick and high-weft-density satin. Judging from the practical results, the application of cold rolling batch technology not only takes a long time, but also has insufficient whiteness. It seems that it needs to be used in silk The key to truly realizing the industrialization of cold pad-batch technology for purification and degumming is to research and develop a refining agent or refining enzyme that is more efficient than the current refining and degumming, and the time must be reduced within 24 hours. To achieve this, cold pad-batch Silk refining has industrial value.
2. Spray dyeing technology.
An airflow atomization dyeing technology has been developed abroad. In the dyeing process, the dye additives are mixed with the airflow and then passed through a high-temperature atomization device to directly atomize the dye. The gaseous form is sprayed onto fabrics. Fabric operation is entirely dependent on air circulation. Circulating airflow enables operations that are completely dependent on airflow circulation. Circulating airflow smoothes the running fabric. Therefore, when the atomized dye comes into contact with the fabric, due to continuous condensation, the dye continues to expand on the surface of the fabric and penetrate into the fiber. Repeat this until the dyeing is completed. Compared with conventional dyeing, this technology has the following advantages: (1) The liquor ratio is as small as 5-10, instead of the conventional 1:30-50; (2) The dyeing time is shortened by 40%-50%; (3) The fabric runs smoothly Tension; (4) Save energy and reduce sewage treatment costs; (5) Avoid defects in conventional dyeing machines and improve dyeing quality; (6) Due to tension-free operation, the fabric has a special softness and drape. This technology runs between 15-30M/min instead of 150-70M/min. Some domestic companies are already working on improving their equipment and processes. In short, spray dyeing technology is used to make noodlesIt is desirable to achieve a leveling effect.
3. Pigment printing technology.
Cotton and polyester-cotton fabrics use pigment printing to account for about 50% of the global printing market. The fixation of pigment printing mainly relies on the reaction of adhesives and cross-linking agents to form a network of macromolecular film layers to adhere the paint. On the fiber surface, the disadvantage of this type of printing is that it makes the fabric feel stiff. The key to silk paint printing technology is that a good adhesive has not yet been found. It must not only make the paint adhere firmly to the surface of the silk, so that the color fastness reaches the national standard, but also ensure that the softness of the silk is not affected. Currently there are two main types of adhesives on the market: polypropylene and polyurethane. This does not meet the requirements of silk that requires both good fastness and soft hand feel. It has been improved in recent years and has been widely used to print small surface patterns, but it still cannot achieve the effect of dye printing on large area printing. The pigment printing process is simple, the process is short, and it saves time and energy. It has huge advantages. Therefore, the research and application of pigment printing technology on silk will continue to be a hot topic and subject in the future.
4. Four-color printing technology.
For example, the imported equipment for a printing machine with more than 20 colors will cost more than one million US dollars. However, today’s printing industry only uses overprinting of four sets of colors (now developed to 6-8 sets of colors) to print patterns with rich colors and natural transitions. There are more than 10,000 colors represented. The current development of CAD and the improvement of printing and dyeing technology provide a research and development basis for four-color printing of silk. In recent years, four-color printing of single patterns or patterns has been successful. However, in continuous printing, there is still the problem of being unable to open the circuit and connect the plates. There are still many problems in computer image processing, tone control, color virtuality and reality, etc., which need to be further explored and solved. It is expected that four-color printing technology will become increasingly mature.
5. Digital printing technology
Due to the development of computer technology, the computer will transmit the printing design pattern information to a group of dye nozzles, and control the opening and closing of the dye nozzles to complete the fabric. New technology in printing process. Not only the pattern is designed on the computer, but also the natural scenery or flowers can be photographed with a digital camera, modified and modified into the required pattern on the computer, and then the dye nozzle is controlled to spray print on the fabric. This technology is suitable for proofing, small batches and multiple varieties. , conversion speed is extremely fast, allowing for fast delivery. However, the disadvantage is that the production speed is very slow, and printing needs to be scanned line by line. The output cannot compete with the existing automatic printing machines; special dyes are required; the printed fabrics require special pre-treatment, otherwise the patterns will bleed and become blurred. In the 21st century, digital printing technology is definitely a new and promising printing technology.
Technologies that can be developed for silk printing include:
(1) Elasticity-increasing and anti-wrinkle technology that can maintain the original style of silk;
(2) Finishing technology that can improve color fastness and anti-aging;
(3) “Green” printing and dyeing technology that does not use surfactants and synthetic dyes;
(4) Carry out inspection on printed products Technology for color measurement and matching;
(5) Technology for plasma treatment of fabric surface without water and chemicals to improve fabric dyeability and wearing comfort;
(6 ) Carbon dioxide liquid dyeing technology; etc.
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