Analysis of weft bias problem of woven fabrics



Clothing production companies, due to poor quality of fabrics, often affect the quality and delivery time of ready-made garments. This will have a negative impact on the image of t…

Clothing production companies, due to poor quality of fabrics, often affect the quality and delivery time of ready-made garments. This will have a negative impact on the image of the company and customer confidence. For example, jeans production companies often encounter fabric problems Weft bias phenomenon, if corresponding measures are not taken during the production of ready-made garments, The size of the garment is very unstable, especially after washing, the deformation will be more prominent, which often appears as “distortion” and seriously affects the appearance and wearing performance of the garment.
1
Definition of latitude slope

General twill fabrics have large internal stress due to improper handling in the production process, which will produce weft skew. This causes the fabric to twist, and the weft skew is divided into left and right weft skew, commonly known as “skip direction” ” and “Zhi direction”. The degree of latitudinal inclination = (h/H) X 100% , the greater the weft slope, the greater the weft slope change rate of the fabric after washing. The greater the weft slope, the greater the weft slope change rate of the fabric.



2
Common testing methods for weft slope

 1. Draw a 50cmX50cm square 15cm away from the edge of the fabric


 2. Send for washing. Remember to iron it with an iron after washing, and measure the change after leaving it for 2-3 hours


 3. Measurement and calculation methods, measurement Difference between diagonals in mm , 100X2 (long diagonal – short diagonal) / sum of two diagonals = latitude and slope percentage


Generally, the amplitude of weft slant must be less than 2%-3%. Otherwise, the garment will appear twisted or buttoned.



3
Method for testing weft bias of woven fabrics

When the cloth surface is vertical, first find a balance line as a reference, align one end of it with that straight line, and then measure the height of the other side above/(lower) the balance line to make sure it is higher than The height of /(low) divided by the width of the door width is the number of weft inclines.




Tear off a piece with your hands, then align the edges of the fabric and fold it in half. The difference is a few centimeters, and then divide it by the width to get the percentage. It’s hard to say, it depends on the style. If there are stripes, it will be troublesome. There is basically no problem if it is below 5%. When laying out materials beyond this, the left and right bone positions must be aligned in the same direction to avoid twisting the cylinder.



4
Control of latitude and oblique

Different weft straighteners can be used according to the type of weft skew. The principle of weft straightening is to adjust the relative running speed between each warp yarn of the fabric through the mechanical action of the overall mechanism, so that the corresponding part of the weft skew “leads ahead” ” or “lag”, thereby restoring the state where the weft and warp yarns intersect vertically across the entire width.



5
Causes of latitude oblique

Why do the fabric weave and knitted fabric fibers become tilted? Or the fabric weave is twisted in a serpentine shape? This phenomenon is called weft skew, and there are two reasons for it.




Cause one: If the fabric design or knitted fabric design is poor, the weft bias will form. In this case, the design itself must be completely changed.


 


Cause two: Although the textiles are made according to normal weaving and design, weft skew is formed during the dyeing process and printing process. This kind of skew accident mostly occurs in dyeing and printing factories on short The reason for plain weave fabrics and filament fabrics is that the softer the fabric, the easier it is to deform.




Therefore, when rope dyeing or dyeing with a dyeing machine similar to this, the occurrence of weft skew in plain weave fabric is particularly obvious, and it is easy to form the weft skew and serpentine (S-shaped) state of the fabric.



When bending produces defective products and the fabric structure bends, all textiles (dips dyeing, continuous dyeing, printing) using the fabric will become defective products. Especially when printing and finishing, the bending state is clear at a glance. Weft skew occurs during use The fabric is printed and finished, resulting in a “bending” accident. The printed pattern curves against the fabric. If the squeegee guide belt of the rotary screen printing machine or the automatic flat screen printing machine sticks to the fabric without weft adjustment, it will easily cause weft skew.



6
Solution to latitude and skew

To solve this problem, in the regulator The cloth is passed through the diagonal rod of the cloth in front, and a tension difference is formed on the left and right sides of the cloth for correction. In addition, there are many factories that use the weft bias and serpentine edge of the correction cloth to install the adjuster. However, this method cannot completely eliminate the latitudinal slope. There are many factories like this.




When using an adjuster to correct the weft skew and meandering state of the cloth through human visual inspection and manual operation, if there is an error in the visual inspection and manual operation, there is an immediate danger of the weft skew or meandering of the cloth. Completely prevent the weft skew or meandering. The oblique method is to install the weft in front of the regulator or in front of the printing machine. Skew correction device (weft straightening machine), if the cloth is passed through this device, the weft skew can be eliminated if three interconnected and appropriate devices (weft straightening device) are used, including a sensor, a microprocessor and a specially designed guide device. ), it is possible to correct the latitude skew in an unmanned manner.

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Author: clsrich

 
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