The clothing design renderings are converted into plane structure drawings, that is, design renderings – determine the body shape and data – structural decomposition sketch – determine the drawing specifications of the main parts – clean sample of the plane structure drawing – rough sample. In such paper pattern design process, the designer must consider how to set up a better set of production paper samples to improve the quality of ready-made garments and reduce costs. Improve efficiency and therefore be different from ordinary paper pattern making (for personal and customized clothing ).
All sewing parts of the sample should be released from the garment structure drawing according to the designed sewing process. It is necessary to indicate the sewing methods and requirements in addition to the existing technical parameters and marks on the clean sample.
① Review the set size. Measure various parts of the pattern according to the customer or given dimensions.
②Recheck the consistency of each suture. For the interconnection of various parts of the garment, it is necessary to check whether the cuff arc and neckline arc are smooth and smooth after the pattern is made; check whether the shirt hem and cuff arc are round and smooth; check whether the sleeve mountain curvature and armhole curvature are equal in length; check the neckline curvature and Check whether the collar and leg lines are equal in length; check whether the cuff curvature and sleeve width of the sleeves are equal; check whether the lengths of the front and rear side seams are equal.
③Recheck each alignment mark. Men’s shirts have front fold marks and button gate marks; shirt cuff curvature and sleeve alignment marks; collar button gate marks and alignment marks with the front center line; open patch pocket welt fold marks, etc.; cuffs Pleat marks on the line, etc.
④ Review the cloth grain lines. Check the direction of the thread used when cutting the fabric.
⑤Recheck the seam allowance. For men’s shirt production patterns, except for the placket sticker and placket patch pocket seam allowance (stop), the rest have a 1CM seam allowance.
⑥Recheck the total quantity of paper patterns. There are 11 patterns for men’s shirts (including bottom collar and top collar).
⑦ Review all materials for completeness. Including style name, cutting quantity, yardage, cut piece name, etc.
The reviewed patterns will be cut into garments to check whether the patterns meet the design intent. This kind of pattern is called “head board”. The unconfirmed pattern is modified, adjusted or even redesigned, and then reviewed to become a “duplicate board” made into ready-made garments, and finally confirmed as a garment production pattern.
