1. Classification of Jackets
In outdoor equipment laboratories, jackets are usually divided into two categories, Rain Jacket and Hardshell Jacket. It is a common classification abroad. There is no clear classification of jackets in China. Generally speaking, rainproof jackets correspond to lightweight jackets, while hard-shell jackets correspond to jackets. The two are different from price to materials to uses.
1. Rainproof jackets are relatively cheap, usually less than 300 US dollars (about 2,000 RMB). They are generally 2-layer or 2.5-layer structures. They are lighter in weight, usually simple in design, and can provide good functionality. But compared to hard-shell jackets, the durability is not that good because of the materials and technology, and the weatherproofing and breathability are not that good (relatively speaking). Suitable for general commuting and outdoor activities, or when pursuing lightweight. This is also a better choice if you live in a hotter climate.
2. Hard-shell jackets are more expensive, ranging from 300-800 US dollars (approximately 2000-5000 RMB). Most of them have a 3-layer structure, which represents the best waterproof and breathable Fabrics and technology. Compared with rain jackets, it has better waterproof and breathable performance, better design, and better durability. If you’re going to spend some time in harsh conditions, especially in the winter, take part in activities such as high-altitude hiking, snowshoeing, ice climbing, and more. The protection provided by a hard shell jacket is a better choice.
2. The structure of the jacket
The structure of the jacket refers to the structure of the jacket fabric, which is also the core factor of the jacket. Waterproof and breathable films are usually combined with other materials to form composite fabrics. Depending on the structure, it is usually divided into 2 layers, 2.5 layers and 3 layers (layer is also written as L). Regardless of the number of layers, much of their design and performance are similar. They are usually made up of three layers of material, with the main difference being the innermost layer of the garment.
1. The first layer is the outermost surface fabric. Fabric usually composed of nylon or polyester to provide a long-lasting protective layer. Denier (D) is usually used to measure the fiber thickness and weaving density of the fabric. The higher the denier, the thicker and heavier the fabric is. Their surface is coated with a durable water repellent coating (DWR), which prevents water from condensing on the outside of the jacket and falling off.
2. The second layer, or middle layer, is usually a waterproof and breathable film such as EVENT, Gore-Tex, other patented membranes or coated fabrics. They give the jacket waterproof and breathable properties. Generally speaking, the waterproof membrane is bonded under the surface fabric.
3. The third layer, the innermost layer of clothing, is mainly used to protect the waterproof layer from the inside and is the key to all differences.
1) The innermost layer of the 3-layer structure is usually an ultra-thin polyurethane (PU) film or other similar lining. Prevent sweat and grease from clogging the pores of the waterproof breathable layer and maintain the breathability of the clothes. Its biggest advantage is durability, because the innermost layer is lined to protect the waterproof and breathable membrane, whether it is to prevent tearing or to prevent the ventilation holes from being blocked. However, because of the extra layer, it is often heavier than many similar products with 2.5 layers.
2) The 2.5-layer structure looks similar to the 3-layer structure (but thinner and lighter). Its innermost layer is a very thin polyurethane composite coating or other coating. This layer is usually “painted” on top of the waterproofing layer, which is why it is considered a half-layer. Its breathability is similar to that of 3 layers. But it can be a little sticky and clammy to wear because some of the coatings don’t do a good job of “absorbing” and transferring sweat. The advantage of 2.5 layers is that they are generally lighter and thinner, but tend to be less durable. It is worth noting that in the past few years, 2.5-layer waterproof and breathable fabrics have made great progress, and the sticky feeling has been reduced a lot.
3) The innermost layer of the 2-layer structure is an independent loose lining, usually a mesh, used to protect the waterproof and breathable layer. The price is relatively cheap. It has good breathability, but its shortcomings are obvious. It is very heavy and bulky, making it unsuitable for outdoor use. Due to these shortcomings, 2-layer jackets are rarely seen anymore. However, before the 2.5-layer technology revolution more than a decade ago, about half of the jackets on the market were 2-layer.
3. Various types of waterproof/breathable fabrics
There are mainly three types of waterproof and breathable fabrics used in jackets on the market based on design principles: ePTFE fabrics, PU fabrics and coated fabrics. layer of fabric.
1. ePTFE fabric
1) Gore-tex
Gore-Tex is the world’s earliest and most famous waterproof and breathable fabric. It is also the most typical waterproof and breathable fabric. Simply put, Gore-Tex film is a polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE for short) membrane that can be stretched to a specific size to form countless small holes. This allows water vapor to pass through it, but liquid water cannot, thereby achieving a waterproof and breathable effect.
Each series of Gore-tex membranes have the same waterproof membrane and lining. The only difference is the surface fabric. The manufacturer can only choose the surface fabric. Every manufacturer that wants to use Gore-tex must be strictly controlled by Gore, from product design and workmanship to processing plants and machines. After the samples are made, they must pass Gore’s waterproof, breathable and other tests before they can be officially mass-produced.��The jacket in the usual sense appeared. Gore discovered and patented a process for making ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene). This membrane contains countless pores, which are small enough that liquid water cannot pass through, but large enough that water vapor can pass through. Attach this film to the surface fabric. The world’s first waterproof and breathable fabric appeared, so it was also called the cloth of the century. Today’s other waterproof/breathable fabrics are also developed based on this structure. Gore-Tex’s waterproof products quickly occupied the market, or, in a sense, it created a new waterproof clothing market, and waterproof fabrics using polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) simply could not compete with it.
The first Gore-Tex fabrics were two-layer structures that laminated an ePTFE membrane to a nylon or polyester fabric, and then used a mesh or thin fabric liner to hang within this fabric to provide Protect it and provide a comfortable touch. Gore soon discovered that the pores of the ePTFE membrane were easily clogged by grease and dirt, so he added an oil-resistant PU layer to the innermost layer. This PU layer can protect the ventilation holes from being blocked, but it prevents moisture from passing directly through the ventilation holes. The PU layer can only absorb water and then emit it. This technique works best with large temperature gradients. Moisture is always moving from warm places to cold places. When it’s cool, the fabric breathes well, but when it’s hot, the fabric wicks away much less sweat.
The next big advancement in three-layer structure fabrics is to use mesh or plain cotton and linen fabrics as linings, which not only achieves the effect of protecting the film, but also provides better breathability. As the concept of “light is right” took over the outdoor world in the 1990s, waterproof and breathable fabrics with a 2.5-layer structure were also born. The structure consists of a textured “half-layer” that is printed on rather than laminated.
The ePTFE patent originally applied for by Gore expired in the mid-1990s, and his competitors, many of whom have developed PU films and advanced PU coatings combined with PTFE technology, have been experimenting. Although the choice of waterproof and breathable fabrics has doubled, Gore-Tex still maintains its dominance in high-end waterproof and breathable fabrics. Polartec NeoShell, eVent and Mountain Hardwear’s Dry.Q are the latest ePTFE waterproof and breathable fabrics. These technologies do not use a PU layer, so they are directly breathable. High-performance PU films are also popular today, such as Patagonia’s H2No and Marmot’s NanoPro. With the emergence of these new truly breathable fabrics, Gore-tex is joining the revolution. The latest version of Gore-tex Pro is its first product that does not use a PU layer as the inner layer, creating the first truly directly breathable Gore-tex fabric.
7. Purchase Summary
First of all, first weigh the scenarios in which you often use your jacket. Draw a range from the areas you visit frequently and the areas that are probably the most difficult to visit. Preliminarily determine what type of jacket you need, whether it is a rain jacket or a hard-shell jacket.
Then, choose different types of fabrics according to your preferences. Whether breathability is most important, rainproofing is most important, or functionality is most important, refer to the indicators above. Then carefully take out an interval.
Finally, choose your favorite brand and style.
