Among wool products, standing pile and smooth pile wool are two very common varieties. These two varieties are also relatively high-end categories of wool products and are generally used to make high-end coats. Below is a brief introduction to these two products.
What is velvet?
After the woolen fabric is milled, raised, sheared and other processes, the fabric surface has a layer of standing, dense fluff, which is the velvet fabric. The quality of velvet fabric requires dense, vertical, flat and uniform piles, plump and even suede surface, soft and rich hand feel, body and elasticity, not loose and soft luster.
Turning is the foundation of this product, raising and shearing are the key, and boiling is an effective measure to shape the pile, increase its luster, and facilitate shearing. Only by organically combining the four processes of shrinking, raising, and shearing and boiling, and echoing them one after another, can the finishing quality achieve satisfactory results.
Due to the different raising methods used for velvet fabrics (thorn raising, needle roller raising, needle roller and thorn raising), the process flow is slightly different, but the initial washing and shrinkage Parts are the same.
What is smooth hair?
If the pile on the surface of the fabric lies in one direction, it is called a smooth pile fabric. Due to the length of the down, the degree of lying down and the raw materials used, it is divided into many categories. The common ones are as follows: tuosi brocade, short smooth woolen cloth, and long smooth woolen cloth.
Tuosi Jin is the transliteration of “doeskin”, which means the quality of the fabric is exquisite, and its appearance and feel can be similar to that of a doe’s skin. There are three types of tuosi brocade: worsted, woolen, and fine and rough interweaving.
Short tweed is a tweed fabric with shorter pile. The raw materials are mostly fine wool, or plush with a fineness of less than 18 microns, such as cashmere, camel hair, yak hair, rabbit hair, etc. It can be spun purely, or some plush can be blended with fine wool, which is the best among woolen woolens. A noble product with unique advantages such as soft feel, bright luster, fine and smooth velvet.
Long fleece fabric is a fleece fabric made of longer fibers. The pile on the surface of the finished product should be long and even, fluffy and straight. Tuosi Jin requires short and dense velvet and a fine, clean and soft feel. The two are different in style.
Although there are many types of fleece fabrics, no matter what kind of fleece fabric, the common quality requirements are: the surface of the fabric is covered with dense velvet, smooth and even, the velvet falls in one direction, has good shape, and does not shed hair. It feels smooth and soft, not loose, and has enough fat.
The raw material composition, yarn count, weight range, etc. used in smooth pile fabrics are basically the same as those of velvet fabrics.
In order to obtain a product with smooth, fine pile and a certain body structure, finer yarn counts should be used as much as possible to obtain a tighter fabric structure without increasing weight. At the same time, a larger warp density should be used for the warp surface weave, and a sufficient weft density should be used for the weft surface weave.
The twist of the wool yarn used in smooth wool fabrics should be appropriate. If the twist is too large, the hair will be short and the bottom will be easily exposed; if the twist is too small, long hair will be easy to grow and the pile surface will not be plump.
During the various processing processes of producing velvet, attention must be paid to protecting and bringing into play the characteristics of the raw materials to reduce damage to the fibers. This is especially true when using raw materials such as cashmere, yak hair, camel hair, etc.
The plump pile surface of smooth woolen fabrics comes from milling and raising. Short smooth woolen fabrics should be milled first to basically show no grain, and then raised. They should be raised lightly first, and then gradually increase the raising force. In order to obtain a more ideal suede surface.
