Development of Moisture Absorbable and
Breathable Reversible Polyester Cloth
Zhang Sujian Wu Chunyan Gao Weiliang
(Jiangyin Polytechnic College) (Jiangsu Jiangyin Textile Test Center) (Jiangsu．Iiangyin Firstextile Co., Ltd.)
Abstract Design methods and production key points of moisture absorbable and breathable reversible polyester cloth were discussed． Moisture absorbable and breathable polyester blended yarn was used as inner layer and cotton yarn was used as surface layer, reversible jacquard fabric was designed． Fabric moisture adsorption was tested and analyzed． The result shows that reed width should be designed rationally to ensure fabric width． Soaping was strengthened to make full use of moisture adsorption effect． Finally compared to related standard, it is consid·ered that fabric moisture adsorption is better, design and production demands can be reached． Key Words Polyester Fiber, Reversible Cloth, Width, Finish, Soaping
As we all know, natural fibers such as cotton have good hygroscopic properties and are comfortable to wear. However, when the human body sweats a lot, the cotton fiber will expand due to moisture absorption, and its air permeability will decrease and it will stick to the skin; at the same time, its moisture will be dispersed The speed is also slower, causing a cold and wet feeling to the human body. Ordinary synthetic fibers, such as polyester fiber, have low water absorption, poor moisture permeability, easy accumulation of static electricity, easy to feel stuffy during activities, and poor wearing comfort. In recent years, some moisture-wicking polyester fibers (hereinafter referred to as moisture-wicking fibers) have appeared on the market. They mainly use polyester fiber cross-section deformation (Y-shaped, cross-shaped, w-shaped, bone-shaped, etc.) to form grooves on the fiber surface. With the help of grooved wicking and moisture-conducting structure, the moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking effect is achieved. The moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber selected in this article has a honeycomb microporous structure that penetrates both inside and outside. The specific surface is extremely large. The micropores in the fiber are interconnected, making it absorb moisture quickly, disperse quickly, and dry quickly. Quick drying function. This kind of moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber yarn is interwoven with cotton yarn, and a structure composed of one system of warp yarns and two systems of weft yarns is used to develop a police uniform fabric. The following is a brief introduction.
1 Design of moisture-absorbent and sweat-wicking double-sided fabric
1.1 Selection of raw materials There are two types of moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber yarns: pure spinning and blended spinning. Common specifications include 36 tex, 29 rex, 19 tex, 18 tex, 14.6 tex, 12 tex, 10 tex, etc. Taking into account the fine and high-density style characteristics of the fabric and the comfort of the fabric, a 14.6 tex moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber blended yarn was selected as the inner weft yarn of the double-sided fabric. The blending ratio is 60% moisture-wicking fiber and cotton. Fiber 40%; warp yarn and surface weft yarn are all made of 14.6 tex long-staple cotton yarn.
1.2 Arrangement design of colored yarns Double-sided fabrics are mainly used for the processing of high-end men’s shirts in autumn and winter. The colors are mainly light and elegant, with white and blue being more commonly used. In order to prevent the dye from affecting the grooves on the surface of the moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fibers, white is chosen for the moisture-wicking fiber in the inner layer, and blue is chosen for the surface weft cotton yarn. To prevent the tone from being too dark, the warp yarns are also chosen to be white. The arrangement of warp and weft colored yarns is as follows: the outer and inner layers in the warp direction are white C 14.6 tex yarn, the outer layer in the weft direction is blue C 14.6 tex yarn, and the inner layer is white T/C 60/40
14.6 tex yarn.
1.3 Design of fabric structure and warp and weft density
The design points of the moisture-wicking double-sided fabric structure are: first, to give full play to the moisture-conducting and moisture-absorbing properties of the two yarns; second, to form patterns on the fabric to increase the aesthetics of the fabric. According to the characteristics of fabrics with long floating threads that have good water absorption and breathability, the surface weave of this article uses three upper and lower right twill, and the inner weave uses one upper and three lower left twill. The arrangement ratio of the surface and inner wefts is 1:1. When configuring the surface and inner wefts, pay attention to the weft floating points of the surface layer covering the weft floating points of the inner layer. In order to make the water droplets spread to the surface as quickly as possible, the exchange points of the inner and outer tissues are designed according to the size of the water droplets, that is, 8 warps and 8 wefts are used as a cycle. After every two weft yarns on the surface, the surface weft yarns and the inner weft yarns are exchanged for two times. root. Since the colors of the weft yarns on both sides are different, the inner weft yarns floating on the surface form small diamond-shaped dots, which increases the beauty of the fabric. The structure of the double-sided fabric is shown in Figure 1.
The warp density of double-sided fabric can be set according to the warp density of 14.6 rex fabric, which is set to 512 threads/10 cm. Since the fabric uses a double-sided weave, the weft density is set to twice the weft density of conventional fabrics, which is 630 threads/10 cm.
2 Key points for the production of moisture-absorbent and sweat-wicking double-sided fabrics
2.1 Weaving process
The shrinkage rate of moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fibers is relatively large, and the finishing shrinkage rate of its blended fabrics is 12% to 16%. The reed width can be determined based on the weaving shrinkage of similar varieties and the finishing shrinkage of the moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber blended fabric, which is 178 cm, the warp density on the machine is 420 threads/10 cm, and the weft density on the machine is 606 threads/10 cm.
2.2 Finishing process
The process flow is: desizing – soaping – washing – heat setting – pre-shrinking. The desizing process parameters are set as follows: vehicle speed 70 m/min, stacking time 25 minutes, steam box temperature 60°C, and water washing temperature 90°C. When soaping, the boiling solution is washed with a soaping solution (pH slightly alkaline) with a concentration of 5% (liquid ratio is 1:40). The washing temperature is 95°C ~ 100°C. After reaching the set temperature, wash for 20 minutes. ~30 rain. After boiling is completed, useRinse with water 2 to 3 times to fully demonstrate the moisture absorption and sweat wicking effect. During heat setting, the vehicle speed is set to 50 m/min, the drying room temperature is 120°C, and the pre-shrinking speed is 30 m/min.
2.3 Double-sided fabric renderings
The fabric rendering is shown in Figure 2. The flower shape is beautiful, the colors are coordinated, and the design effect is quite satisfactory.
3 Performance inspection of moisture-absorbent and sweat-wicking double-sided fabric
In order to test whether the developed products can meet the performance requirements of police uniform materials, this article tests and analyzes the appearance performance and moisture absorption performance of the fabric. The appearance performance is reflected by the wrinkle recovery rate and pilling properties of the fabric; the moisture absorption performance is mainly through moisture diffusion. time and moisture drying rate.
3.1 Fabric wrinkle recovery
Since this fabric uses a moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber blended yarn containing a honeycomb structure, the shrinkage rate of this yarn is relatively large, and the woven fabric is prone to wrinkles. This test reflects the anti-wrinkle effect of the fabric. The fabric crease recovery angle test is carried out in accordance with the GA 365-2009 standard and the GB/T 3819-1997 test method. During sampling, at least 20 specimens were cut from each sample (10 specimens in the warp and weft directions). The YG541B wrinkle elasticity tester was used for testing, and 5 specimens were folded in half in each direction. After testing, the crease recovery angle of this fabric is 300. , greater than 280 specified in the GA 365-2009 standard. , indicating that this fabric has good anti-wrinkle recovery properties.
3.2 Fabric pilling resistance
Since the honeycomb structure moisture-wicking yarn contained in this fabric has a lot of TLN and is prone to pilling, the pilling test is used to reflect the anti-pilling performance of the fabric. The test was conducted in accordance with the GB/T 4802-1997 standard, using the YG502N fluffing and pilling tester. Take 5 samples with a diameter of (1 13 ± 0.5) mm. They can be cut with a sample cutter or template. They should be more than 10 cm away from the edge of the cloth. There should be no defects on the samples that will affect the test results. The sample should be placed under standard atmospheric conditions and humidified for 48 hours, and tested under these atmospheric conditions.
After testing, the arithmetic mean of the five sample grades was calculated and rounded to the nearest grade of 0.5. The result was that the pilling was grade 3 to 4, which is mild pilling. This shows that the fabric is resistant to pilling. The performance is good.
3.3 Moisture diffusion time
The fabric moisture diffusion time test is conducted using the GA 365-2009 standard. This indicator can reflect the moisture removal function of the fabric. The testing equipment includes a circular sample cutter (10 CIn × 10 cm), a buret (1 mL), a stopwatch (0.5 S), and a sample suspension device. On the cloth surface with no defects that will affect the test results, use a circular sample cutter to cut 5 samples of 10 cm x 10 cm in a trapezoid shape, more than 1.5 cm from the end of the cloth and more than 10 cm from the edge. After testing, the water diffusion time before washing was 2.7 minutes, and the water diffusion time after washing was 3.83 minutes. The GA 365-2009 standard stipulates that the moisture diffusion time before washing is ≤7 S and after washing is ≤8 S, which means that the fabric has good moisture absorption function. The test results of this double-sided fabric all reach the range specified by the standard, indicating that it has good moisture absorption function.
3.4 Moisture drying rate
The moisture drying rate is tested using the GA 365-2009 standard. This indicator can reflect the moisture removal function of the fabric. The testing instruments include YG747 oven, LP rolling car, balance (accuracy 0.001 g), and scissors. On the cloth surface without defects that will affect the test results, cut two samples of about 5 crux20 cm each in the warp and weft directions, more than 1.5 cm from the end of the cloth and more than 10 cm from the edge.
Calculate the arithmetic mean of the test results of the four samples respectively, and round the test results to one decimal place according to GB/T 8l70-2008. It is calculated that the warp drying rate before washing is 93.1% and the weft drying rate is 93.9%; the warp drying rate after washing is 90.4% and the weft drying rate is 90.5%.
The standard stipulates that the drying rate before washing is ≥90% and the drying rate after washing is ≥90%, which means that the fabric has good moisture removal function. The drying rate of this double-sided fabric before and after washing is greater than 90%, indicating that this fabric has good moisture removal function.
4 Conclusion
The moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking double-sided fabric designed and developed in this article uses moisture-wicking blended fiber yarn as the inner layer, so that it can quickly absorb moisture and sweat on the surface of the skin through zero-distance contact with the human body, and instantly discharge it from the body; cotton yarn is used as the inner layer The surface layer diffuses sweat and quickly evaporates it, thereby achieving the purpose of moisture absorption, sweating and regulating body temperature. In actual production, due to the large shrinkage of moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking fiber fabrics after finishing, the reed width on the upper machine should be reasonably designed to ensure the width of the finished product; the finishing should enhance the soaping effect to give full play to the function of moisture-wicking fibers. After experimental testing, the crease recovery angle of the fabric is 300. , the drip diffusion time before washing is 2.7 minutes, and the drip diffusion time after washing is 3.83 minutes; the warp drying rate before washing is 93.1%, and the weft drying rate is 93.9%; the warp drying rate after washing The drying rate is 90.4%, and the zonal drying rate is 90.5%. Comparing the above test data with relevant standards shows that the fabric has good moisture absorption and discharge performance and meets the design requirements.
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