1
Classification of fabrics
Fabrics are mainly divided into non-textile fabrics and textile fabrics. From another dimension, they are divided into natural fabrics and non-natural fabrics. fabric.
Natural
a. Plant fibers, such as cotton, hemp, and fruit fibers
b. Animal fibers, such as wool, wool, and silk
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c. Mineral fibers, such as asbestos
Non-natural
a. Regenerated fibers, such as viscose, acetate, Tencel, Modal, Lyocell, Bamboo fiber, etc.
b. Synthetic fibers, such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, Lycra, etc.
c. Inorganic fibers, such as glass fiber, metal fiber, etc.
II
From the perspective of textile technology
Woven:
The fabric structure is stable and has no elasticity (except for fabrics with elastic fibers added). The surface is flat, solid and durable, with a crisp appearance and loose volume. Simply put, it does not fit close to the body. If it is damaged and scratched, it will not be visible
Knitted fabric
The fabric is elastic and the fabric is elastic. The surface feels soft, comfortable and suitable for the body, breathable and easy to take off. To put it simply, it means getting bigger and bigger. There was a hole in it.
The grade of fabrics is: (not distinguishing between printing and dyeing processes)
Low-grade fabrics: ordinary chemical fibers
Ordinary fabrics: ordinary cotton, linen
Intermediate fabrics: Lycra, Tencel and other intermediate chemical fiber fabrics and natural and blended fabrics, tussah silk, long-staple cotton, ordinary leather, etc.
Advanced fabrics: wool, mulberry silk, (fabric), calfskin, small High-quality leathers such as sheepskin, common furs such as fox fur
Top-grade fabrics: sheep (camel hair), heavy mulberry silk fabrics, precious leather, mink and other high-end furs
Ordinary fabrics Summary of disadvantages:
Cotton: below ordinary long-staple cotton, it will become hard after repeated washing
Colored cotton: only brown and green colors
Line: Not wrinkle-resistant, easy to fade, easy to shrink mold
Ordinary silk: easy to shrink, not acid-resistant, and resistant to sunlight
Wool (velvet): prone to insects.
Rayon: easy to stick to the body
Modal: easy to pill and wrinkle
Tencel: hardened in hot and humid environment
Ice Silk: easy to shed and harden
Bamboo fiber: easy to damage
Three
The quality of the fabric
From the perspective of consumption and business From a perspective, the difference between good fabrics and ordinary fabrics is not so obvious, and clothes made of ordinary fabrics may even be more expensive than those made of good fabrics. But from the perspective of the traditional luxury goods industry, any non-natural fabrics are unacceptable. Therefore, unless it is 100% natural fiber fabric, any fabric containing chemical fiber is not very good. This is just like in the traditional jewelry industry, all semi-precious stones (including tourmaline and aquamarine) are not on the table because they are “semi-precious stones”.
So why do pure cotton fabrics add 2% of other chemical fibers?
It is to make up for some shortcomings of pure cotton fabrics. There are advantages and disadvantages to this. The advantage is that you can enjoy it at a low price. It can either achieve almost 80% of the feeling of high-quality fabrics, or it can solve some minor problems of daily wear. The disadvantage is that once you start to accept the taste, it gradually becomes bad.
Four
The value of fabrics
The value of fabrics cannot be measured solely in terms of a single fabric. For example, if a designer splices genuine leather and silk, then Even if these two fabrics are not expensive in the first place, they are very expensive when put together. Because the physical properties of these two fabrics are completely different, how to blend them is a very high level of knowledge. For example, this style may seem unremarkable, but no one dares to underestimate this piece of clothing.
Cotton and linen fabrics and silk fabrics
1
The difference between cotton and linen fabrics
The longer the velvet and the finer the velvet, the better the cotton. It has good air permeability, good gloss, can be made very thin, not easy to break, and has good body feel. Generally speaking, the higher the count, the higher the needle count (some call it the thread count), which means it is a good fabric, but it cannot be too absolute.
General fabrics: short-staple cotton
Good fabrics: ordinary long-staple cotton, island cotton, Pima cotton
High-quality fabrics: Egyptian cotton (used by luxury brands)
Egyptian cotton is a general term for a large category of long-staple cotton. The type that grows in Egypt is the real Egyptian cotton. The type that grows in the United States and Peru is called Pima cotton. The type that grows in other countries except the United States and Peru Local cotton, mainly from the island regions of North and South America and Australia, is called sea island cotton. These three types of cotton actually belong to the same category, and ordinary people cannot tell them apart when looking at the fabrics. In addition, China’s Xinjiang also grows cotton seeds introduced from Egypt. A large number of “Egyptian cotton” on the market is this, but the quality is very different. In terms of price, Egyptian cotton > Pima cotton > Sea Island cotton > Domestic Egyptian cotton.
Two
Count and number of needles
Two concepts that are often mentioned: one is called the number of needles, and the other is called the number of needles (number of needles)
Count
Refers to the thickness of the silk thread, marked with S, such as 100S, also called 100. The higher the count per unit area, the thinner the thread and the thinner the fabric. There are also double-stranded and single-stranded ones, so I won’t go into details. Why does Mao say Egyptian cotton is good? Because of high count cotton, short staple cotton cannot be woven at all.
The number of needles
refers to the density of the fabric, expressed in (t) (c). The most old-school way is: T is polyester, C is pure cotton, and TC is Blended fabric, but now it is generally represented by T, and the one represented by C must be pure cotton. Nowadays, the American style is generally called T. For example, a bedding is called 200T.
What does 200 needles mean? For example, a piece of fabric is usually marked 133*72 in the British marking method, which means that in 1 inch: there are 133 warp threads and 72 weft threads. Then 133 plus 72 equals 205, and the American density standard is simplified to 200T. But this density indicator, a��Those who wear heavy makeup usually need to cover something.
C. Don’t just look at the count. The fabrics from big factories do a good job in post-processing. The texture of 100-count fabrics can instantly beat the 130-count fabrics from small factories.
D. Don’t just think that ring velvet is good. There is a difference between “dense and thin” and “sparse and thin”. Real ring velvet must be more than 200 pieces.
E. Look at the label of the wool sweater. It is marked sf24/s26s/2, 28s/2 is woolen, and the higher one is called worsted, such as 48s/2 60/s120/s
F. The number of needles in a cashmere sweater is different from the number of needles in a fabric. To put it simply, a cashmere sweater with 7 needles and 9 needles is thicker. In winter, adding a cashmere sweater with 7 needles and 9 needles to a coat in Beijing is OK, and 12 needles is OK. -16 stitches are not thick enough, so you have to wear down to use them. 18 stitches are for summer wear.
G. The benefits of blending silk and cashmere are not as great as advertised. To put it simply, I don’t buy this kind of domestic blended fabric, because although the feel is better, it is not warm. One is long velvet and the other is short velvet. If the skills are poor, they will not be able to mix. Moreover, silk is inherently fine (12 microns). If domestic fabrics are labeled as 120-count silk and wool blends, the quality is actually much worse than pure 120-count wool. Foreign fabrics are more conscientious. They are marked as 120S mixed silk, which means that the wool I originally used was 120 thread count.
H. Cashmere must be allowed to rest. This is true for all good fabrics, including lambskin. Otherwise, the structure will become bigger and bigger and it will easily lose its shape. To put it simply, if you wear a cashmere sweater for a day, it should be flat. Let it rest for a day and let the fibers stretched by gravity slowly spring back.
Distinguish between genuine and fake woolen sweaters
How to distinguish between genuine and fake woolen sweaters without much experience? Look at the tag, it’s fake and it’s real.
The real tag color column will not have the word “color”, that is, it will only say dark gray but not dark gray.
The real tag inspection mark must be affixed. It’s not printed on.
The real craftsmanship column must be marked with craftsmanship, such as worsted spinning, jacquard or something else, not just one and a half height
