The so-called increase and decrease amount of clothing, to put it simply, means that after you measure the net size of each part of a person, you should increase the larger size when making the pattern, but it is also affected by the style of clothing.
1. Increase and loosen the amount of various clothing
Underwear: the bust should not be increased or decreased by about 3cm ( Body-hugging effect)
Men’s shirts: add about 18cm to the bust
Women’s shirts: add about 6cm to the bust (fitting effect)
Jackets: add about 6cm to the bust About 23cm
Windbreaker: add about 24cm to the bust
Cheongsam: add about 3cm to the bust, add 3cm to the hip (fitting effect), add 4cm to the waist
Men’s suits: add about 18cm to the bust (fitting effect)
Female suits: add about 8cm to the bust (fitting effect)
Men’s trousers: add about 15cm to the hips , add 2cm to the waist circumference
Women’s pants: add about 5cm to the hip circumference (fitting effect), add 1cm to the waist circumference
Western skirt: add about 3cm to the hip circumference (fitting effect)
Vest: add about 8cm to the bust (fitting effect)
2. The amount of relaxation in different parts
The bust, waist, foot and length of the top , sleeve length, outer length, inner length of bottoms, waist circumference, sitting circumference, and ratio circumference, the total circumference of these parts can be increased (larger) by 1CM; shoulder width, collar circumference, sleeve ratio, cuffs, and bottoms of tops The total circumference of the knees, toes and above can be increased by 0.5CM. There is no need to increase the amount of slack for the clip ring of the top, the arc of the sleeves, the collar, and the front and back waves of the bottom, because these parts are all arc parts, and the arc parts are easy to lengthen during sewing, so there is no need to increase the amount of slack.
3. The amount of relaxation in different processes
For example, the surface fabrics of cotton jackets, windbreakers, and down models usually have cotton wadding. After the wadding, the plane of the fabric will appear uneven. When measuring the size of ready-made garments, the ruler is a straight-pull measurement. Therefore, the more threads between the cotton and the thicker the thickness of the cotton, the greater the shrinkage of the fabric will be, and the amount of relaxation will also increase relatively during pattern making. Generally, the chest circumference, waist circumference, and The amount of loosened foot circumference can be increased by 2-6CM. The length of the garment can be loosened by 1-3CM.
4. Men’s Clothing
The clothing for fat bodies should be smaller and more compact; the clothing for thin bodies should be larger to adjust the body shape; shirts and other clothing should be looser and more compact. The amount of relaxation should be larger for jackets, coats and other clothing; the amount of relaxation should be smaller for strict clothing with bustier shapes, and larger for singles and casual clothes; the amount of relaxation for thicker fabrics should be appropriately increased – in order to make it easier for everyone to master relaxation. According to the law of volume design, we decompose the relaxation amount into the sum of three parts, that is:
The relaxation amount of the net bust = the physiological comfort amount + the relaxation amount of the inner layer of clothing + the styling relaxation amount
1. Physiological comfort amount
The amount of relaxation set to meet the basic physiological requirements of the human body such as breathing, skin elasticity, moderate movement of arms and trunk and other basic movements. In men’s clothing, this basic comfort amount is based on the maximum elongation rate of chest movement of 12%-14%, that is:
Physiological comfort amount = (12%~14%) × net chest circumference, which is about 10~12cm.
2. The amount of relaxation of the inner layer of clothing
Wearing a certain thickness of clothing on the human body will increase its peripheral length. If the human body is simplified into a cylindrical body, it is not difficult for us to calculate the inner layer of clothing. The amount of relaxation = peripheral increase = 2π × clothing thickness. For example, if you wear a 0.5cm thick woolen sweater, the amount of relaxation of the inner layer of clothing = 2π × 0.5 = 3cm. When wearing a shirt underneath, the amount of relaxation of the inner layer of clothing can be set to 0.
3. Styling relaxation amount
In addition to the basic relaxation amount considering the relaxation amount of the inner layer of clothing and the thickness of the clothing material, due to the needs of style and styling, additional relaxation amount should be added to the clothing. to create different appearance silhouettes. For men’s clothing, when the extra space is 0~4cm, the clothing is fit; when the extra space is 4~8cm, the clothing is loose; when the extra space is 8~12cm, the clothing is loose; when the extra space is 12cm or more, the clothing is extra loose. For shirts, suits, etc., the amount of styling enhancement should be conservative. For jackets, coats and other clothing, the styling enhancement amount can be larger. Generally speaking, due to the conservative and subtle nature of men’s clothing, the setting of the relaxation amount is more rigorous, 2~8cm less than similar women’s clothing.
4. Design of net bust relaxation amount for common varieties
In order to make it easier for everyone to master the design of bust relaxation amount, we will illustrate it in the form of examples. For example:
The amount of relaxation in a fitted suit top=11+1 (chest lining, etc.)+(0~4)=12~16cm
The amount of relaxation in a loose-fitting suit jacket=11+ 1+(4~8)=16~20cm
The amount of relaxation of a fitted men’s shirt = the amount of physiological comfort 11 + the amount of relaxation of inner clothing 0 + the amount of styling relaxation (0~4) = 11~15cm
General men’s shirt relaxation amount=11+0+(4~8)=15~19cm
Loose men’s shirt relaxation amount=11+0+(8~12)=19~23cm
Relaxation amount of extra loose men’s shirt=11+0+12 or more=23cm or more
Relaxation amount of fitted jacket=11+6 (when the inner layer of clothing is 1cn thick)+(0~ 4)=17~21cm
Relaxation amount of loose jacket=11+6+(4~8)=21~25cm
